I have had the pleasure recently of getting to know JAMIE LAUREN. I think she is a really gifted chef. If you want to see for yourself, she has consulted with the about-to-open restaurant VODVIL on Fairfax. It will be her American comfort menu. Last night Jamie, ELIZABETH KEENER and I went to ANTONIA LOFASO'S new restaurant, BLACK MARKET. It's in the old Wine Bistro space on Ventura near Laurel Canyon, and it has been completely transformed into a hip gastropub with a sensational beer, ale and wine list ( as well as cocktails, of course), and tons of small plates of goodies. One thing I was shocked to have tried was the Alligator Hot Dog. I try not to eat meat, but I had to taste. I liked it! I loved her Dill Chips with Malt Vinegar Aioli and the Lemon Pepper Shrimp with Lemon Aioli. There was so much to try----a salad of Escarole, Anchovies, White Beans, Parmigiano and Sherry Vinegar; a Shaved Fennel and Watermelon Salad with Goat's Milk Feta, Watermelon Radish and Tarragon, plus her signature dish, Crispy Collard Greens, Benton's Ham, Cheese Grits, and a Soft Egg. The place is really cool.